How to care for and maintain leather shoes
Use a soft horsehair brush or a clean, dry microfibre cloth to remove dust and dirt. Pay attention to seams, creases and the area around the sole.
Why it matters: Dust and grit can gradually scratch the leather’s surface and dull its shine.
Wipe away stains with a slightly damp cloth. For stubborn dirt, use a cleaner specifically formulated for your type of leather. Test it on a discreet area first.
Avoid soaking the shoes or using household detergents, alcohol or harsh chemicals.
Apply a suitable leather conditioner when the leather starts to feel dry or looks dull. Use a small amount, spread it evenly and allow it to absorb.
Why it matters: Conditioning helps maintain suppleness and reduces the risk of drying and cracking. Too much product can darken some leathers.
Use a shoe cream that matches the shoe’s colour to refresh the finish and conceal minor scuffs. Follow with a soft brush or polishing cloth.
Wax polish can provide additional shine and surface protection, particularly on smooth leather. Avoid applying polish intended for smooth leather to suede or nubuck.
Insert appropriately sized wooden shoe trees after wearing your shoes. They help maintain the shape, reduce creasing and absorb some moisture.
If you don’t have shoe trees, use clean, dry, acid-free tissue paper to support the toe area without overstuffing it.
If your shoes become wet from rain or sweat, wipe off moisture and let them dry in a well-ventilated, shaded place.
Never place them directly in the sun, beside a fire or in front of a heater. High heat can cause leather to stiffen, shrink or crack.
Keep shoes away from direct sunlight, damp walls and excessive heat. Use breathable shoe bags to protect them from dust.
In humid environments, ensure shoes are completely dry before storing them. Avoid sealing damp leather in plastic bags.
Use a shoehorn when putting on formal shoes, untie the laces before removing them and avoid stepping on the backs of your shoes.
Where possible, alternate between pairs instead of wearing the same leather shoes every day. This gives them time to dry between uses.
Special care for different types of leather shoes
Smooth leather — Oxfords and Chelsea boots
Use a soft brush, suitable leather conditioner and matching shoe cream. Polish as needed to maintain colour and shine.
Suede and nubuck
Use a suede brush and suede eraser. Apply a compatible suede protector and avoid ordinary leather creams, waxes and conditioners, which can flatten the nap or stain the surface.
Wipe away sweat and dirt regularly, especially on the footbed and straps. Let them air-dry thoroughly and condition the leather straps when appropriate.
Wipe with a soft damp cloth and use a cleaner made for patent finishes. Avoid ordinary wax polish and abrasive brushes that may scratch the glossy coating.
A simple leather shoe maintenance schedule
|
Frequency |
What to do |
|---|---|
|
After every wear |
Brush or wipe off dust; air the shoes |
|
When dirty |
Clean gently with a suitable product |
|
Every few weeks, as needed |
Condition dry-looking smooth leather |
|
Every few wears, or when dull |
Apply suitable shoe cream or polish |
|
Every month |
Inspect soles, heels, stitching and laces |
|
Every few months |
Check storage conditions and assess whether deeper care is needed |
The exact frequency depends on how often you wear the shoes, the climate and the type of leather. Do not condition or polish automatically if the leather does not need it.
Five things that can ruin leather shoes
Excessive sunlight and heat
Washing or soaking in water
Using the wrong polish or cleaning product
Storing shoes while damp
Ignoring loose soles, damaged stitching or worn heels
For premium leather shoes: the golden rule
Clean gently, condition only when needed, protect the finish and never force-dry leather. These habits help preserve the original colour, texture, shape and appearance of your shoes.
If you sell or own expensive leather footwear, remember that genuine leather, suede, nubuck and synthetic leather can require different products. Always check the manufacturer’s care instructions before applying anything new.


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